In the town of Dingle in the south-west of Ireland, locals often say that there are two seasons in the year: six months before the Wren and six months after the Wren (pronounced “wran”). It is not uncommon to hear “I’ll see you the Wren’s Day” as a greeting even more than “happy Christmas” during Christmas week itself.
As someone who grew up in the town, it is fair to say that Dingle people are healthily obsessed with it and that the Wren’s Day is the highlight of the calendar for most townspeople.
While Dingle has quite a unique relationship with the wren tradition, it is not the only community where it survives and thrives and from Carrigkerry to Enniskerry, Fermanagh to Fingal and the Isle of Man to St John’s Newfoundland, the tradition is performed with gusto in communities today that are hugely committed to this ancient custom.
The wren tradition or “hunting the wren” is an old midwinter custom that was once commonplace throughout Ireland, the UK and diaspora communities, but it died out in most areas throughout the 20th century.
The exact origins are unknown, but it was usually performed in rural areas with masked groups calling from house to house with a wren bird that they had captured. They would ask for money to bury the bird and perform some music and song in exchange.
Groups were usually invited into the home and given refreshments and many will be familiar with the rhyme or song that is associated with the visiting groups:
“The wren, the wren, the king of all birds
Saint Stephen’s Day, was caught in the furze
Although he is little, his honour is great
Jump up me lads and give him a treat
Up with the kettle and down with the pan
And give us a penny to bury the wren”
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In folklore, the wren earned the title “King of all Birds” by being a little deceitful, hence why it was hunted.
The story goes that all the various birds met in order to elect a king and it was decided that the bird that could fly closest to the sun would be deemed the winner. The wren knew it would never make it on its own so hid under the eagle’s wing.
When the eagle had flown as close to the sun as he could and the other birds had fallen away, the wren popped out and was deemed to be the closest and so the king. But because of the deceitful manner of his victory, the wren is hunted.
The later Christian story tells of the bird squealing on Saint Stephen when he was hiding from soldiers. Stephen was caught and killed, becoming the first Christian martyr and the wren is hunted on his feast day as a sort of payback.
The stories form inspiration today in the likes of Mercury-nominated band Lankum’s beautifully dark The Wren, which takes both secular and sacred ideas around the wren.
On the Isle of Man, hunting the wren is popular and as well as versions of the recited verse, a dance is also a part of the celebration.
A circular group dance with simple movements and steps, it encourages participation and the dancers gather around a wren pole, which is made from willows and other branches and decorated with foliage from hedgerows, crepe paper and a wren bird (now only a replica). The wren pole is thought to bring luck and the Manx (Isle of Man) tradition references the wren’s connection to fertility.
In St John’s Newfoundland in Canada, where the tradition was brought by Irish and English settlers in the 19th century, groups disguised in old clothes and with their faces covered with old net curtains travel from house to house. At each door they entertain people with music, song and dance, gathering money for a party and/or charity.
The Dingle tradition has adapted over time to incorporate a more carnival style than elsewhere. The town separates into four separate wren groups for the tradition divided by clear geographical boundaries. The Green and Gold, John Street, Goat Street and Quay groups parade around the town from midday to midnight, each with their own band, set of colours, hobby horses and straw suits.
Aoife Granville, Author provided (no reuse)
Among the groups there is a lot of rivalry and informal competition has helped to keep the tradition strong. They all collect for local charities. The music is lively and raucous and celebratory and there is a great sense of pride among the community for having kept the tradition so alive and relevant.
The local Gaelic football team’s jerseys have a wren bird on the back with the words “old comrades”, a tune from the tradition which is used to commemorate and celebrate. The team chant that instead of the more universal “Championées” after matches.
While the groups make sure many of the historic facets of Wren’s day are followed, like many unbroken traditions around the world, there is room for adaptation.
The traditional straw suits, which are made a few weeks beforehand, are still used by the groups, but recent years has seen a great development in the way people like to disguise themselves. From Donald Trump to Graham Norton and from bowling balls to the Grinch, masquerade groups are everywhere.
The midwinter celebration of the wren was intrinsically linked to fertility and good luck for the year ahead and there is probably an element of that today in the communities that celebrate. But mostly it is about honouring those who kept the tradition alive before us, celebrating community and simply having a great time together.
